12 Old French Restaurants Not To Miss
France is home to many of the oldest restaurants in the world. Here are 12 Old French Restaurants Not To Miss. Ranked according to age.
We travel to far off cities and countries to experience new cultures. Museums, galleries and historical buildings capture our short attention span while more important questions dominate our mind. For instance, where are we eating? What are eating? When are we eating? Right? Mais, bien sur (but of course).
Why Do We Love Dining Outside The Home?
First, a region or country’s food tells its history, its wins and agonies of defeat. Its food speaks of romance, heartbreak, nature, wars and God’s call on a land. So, we connect to that place through its food. Second, we dine out to be fed. After that, we dine out to have EXPERIENCES and FEEL alive and connected!
Why chose one of France’s oldest restaurants?
Personally, I love tiny neighborhood restaurants when in France. However, I highly recommend steppin’ it up for one or two of the oldies for great food, but also for experience and a big slice of history. I have identified 12 Old French Restaurants Not To Miss.
Several are possible regardless of your budget. In contrast, a few might require a little bit of a splurge. Regardless, these 12 old French Restaurants all capture and embody history, romance, art, architecture, great smells and great food. In addition, you are with the right person — good conversation. Now THAT’S a memory I want to have!
Chef Missy, The French Magnolia, with hubby, Thomas at La Fouchette (no longer open).
Separating Fact from Fiction –
In case you missed it in one of my earlier blogs, A Magical Formula for Vegetable Provencal Soup. Let me set the record straight – AGAIN. You’re welcome.
Legend has it that the first modern restaurant was established in Paris in 1765 by Monsieur Boulanger (literally translates to Mr. Baker). His alleged restaurant served just one dish: sheep’s feet in a white wine sauce. Now, if you follow my blog here at The French Magnolia, you already know that Monsieur Boulanger’s history and reputation in Paris is indeed both folklore and fable.
To clarify, no one, including Larousse Gastronomic, presents any firm record of Boulanger’s existence. Rebecca Sprang was an expert on 18th and 19th century European history. She spent years buried in French archives while writing her book, The Invention of the Restaurant: Paris and Modern Gastronomic Culture. Subsequently, Rebecca found no record of anyone named Boulanger owning any business, let alone a restaurant. Furthermore, she found no direct sources that anyone named Boulanger ever existed in France. Many other French historians confirm.
To sum up, Monsieur Boulanger did not invent the word “restaurant” nor was he the first to use the word in a professional setting. Certainly, he was not the first restauranteur.
Why does France have so many old restaurants?
Prior to the French Revolution, France was home to many aristocratic families and fortunes. Their kitchens, culinary experiences and cellars were supreme with master’s chefs, chef de cuisine, wine makers, wine stewards and dozens kitchen workers employed.
Consequently, as the French Revolution loomed, aristocratic French families let go of their master cook and kitchen staff for monetary reasons. For that reason, master’s chefs, cooks, house bakers and butcher’s who survived the Revolution emerged looking for their own kitchens to hang their shingle.
Just before the French Revolution, there were only about 50 public dining establishments in Paris. By 1814, 3,000 restaurants, bake shops and butcheries were listed in the popular French travel guide Almanach des Gourmands (The Almanac of Food Lovers).
Hotel de Ville, Marais, 4th, during French Revolution, Paris, France.
12 Old French Restaurants Not To Miss
#1. La Couronne
opened: 1345
address: 31 Place du Vieux Marché, 76000 Rouen, France (Normandy)
website: contact@lacouronne.com.fr
TIPS: easy train from Paris and worth the journey; tons of history, romance and terrific food.
Authentic old world charm and romance, La Couronne, which translates to “the crown”, is truly the oldest living restaurant in France. Certainly, it predates the French Revolution and the mythical Monsieur Boulanger’s “first restaurant” by about 400 years. Perhaps, because La Couronne, which is located in the city of Rouen (Normandy), began as an inn. Many food historians claim La Couronne to be one of the oldest restaurants in the world.
La Couronne was founded in 1345 and is most definitely the oldest inn (auberge) in France. It is located in the Old Market Square (la place du Vieux-Marché) of Rouen, near where Jeanne d’Arc was burnt at the stake in 1431. Surely, it has been updated in the seven centuries since it was founded, La Couronne still boasts authentic wooden beams and the traditional Normand country style architecture of Rouen.
La Couronne continues to get great reviews. Julia Child, in 1948, called it “the most exciting meal of my life.” In the movie Julie and Julia, Meryl Streep and Stanley Tucci are shown dining there.
The menu features old classic French dishes. Most noteworthy, sole meunière, canard à la Rouennaise (pressed duck, or duck served in a blood and bone marrow sauce), and fromage blanc avec des fruits du bois (white cheese with berries). Touting one Michelin star, the history, architecture and journey out of the city makes La Couronne a must-do while in France.
12 Old French Restaurants Not To Miss
#2. Bofinger
opened: 1864
address: 5-7 Rue de la Bastille, 75004 Paris, France
website: https://www.bofingerparis.com/en/
TIPS: go for dinner; have tower of homemade sauerkraut, pork and amazing sausages.
Unapologetically Parisian and located right next to the Bastille (4th), this place never disappoints! Walking distance(ish) from the Place des Vosges and the Place de la Bastille, the Brasserie Bofinger is considered the “most beautiful brewery in Paris”.
I have dined at Bofinger many times and I never miss it when in Paris. First, it’s beautiful but not haughty. The magical Belle Epoque architecture and decor takes you back in time; yet, unpretentiously delivers. For example, a beautiful, affordable wine list; yet they serve beer brewed on the premises. The food is largely inspired by the Alsace region. In short, think sauerkraut, sausages, ham, and other parts of the pig that are all fatty and fantastic. I highly recommend this Paris treasure.
12 Old French Restaurants Not To Miss
#3. La Tour d’Argent
opened: 1582
address: 17 Quai de la Tournelle, 75005 Paris, France
website: https://tourdargent.com/en/
TIPS: strongly recommend the famous La Tour d’Argent duckling
I have eaten at this beautiful restaurant and I would go back again (for the prix fixe lunch). The view of Notre Dame and Paris is stunningly impressive and deeply romantic. The wine cellar claims to be THE biggest and most extensive wine cellar in all of France. The wine menu (book) will blow your mind. While, the sommelier is unpretentious and makes the experience so fun.
Similarly, the prix fixe lunch menu is not “inexpensive”, but makes dining here possible for a special splurge. The famous pressed duck (which is offered on the prix fixe) is special (and historic) as not many restaurants even make pressed duck anymore. Pressed duck is duck served in a blood and bone marrow sauce. It sources ducks from its own farm, having served more than one million of them. Additionally, you are also presented with the gift of a numbered certificate post card with your duck number – PHOTO BELOW.
La Tour d’Argent was a favorite of kings and emperors over the years. It was here that France’s King Henri III apparently used a fork for the first time in the 1500s, forever changing the way the French eat.
La Tour d’Argent, a one-star Michelin, was owned in the 1890s and 1900s by Frédéric Delair, who began the tradition of presenting a numbered certificate to each person who ate the restaurant’s signature dish, pressed duck.
In 1912, the Terrail family bought the restaurant. It was operated first by André Terrail, then by his son Claude, who died in 2006 at the age of 88, and then by Claude’s son André.
Every year, since 1986, La Tour d’Argent has been a recipient of the Wine Spectator Grand Award.
12 Old French Restaurants Not To Miss
#4. Le Procope
opened: ‘Cafe’ Procope opened in 1686
address: 13 Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, 75006 Paris, France
website: https://www.procope.com/
TIPS: go for coq au vin, sole meunière and profiteroles; lunch has a surprisingly affordable prix fixe 3-course menu.
Le Procope, is a favorite among tourists, French tourists included, visiting the Saint Germain des Prés neighborhood and wanting a slice of history. Napoleon Bonaparte, Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, La Fontaine, Voltaire, Danton, Marat, Robespierre, Balzac, Victor Hugo, Gambetta, Verlaine and Anatole France are on the long list of notable names that have passed through its doors. As a result, there is a lot written on the history of this establishment.
The Café Procope claims to be the oldest ‘café’ in Paris in continuous operation which is not entirely true. However, it was a major hub of the artistic and literary community in 18th and 19th century Paris.
In 1689, the Comédie-Française opened its doors across the street — hence the street’s modern name. By this stoke of fortune, the café attracted many actors, writers, musicians, poets, philosophers, revolutionaries, statesmen, scientists, dramatists, stage artists, playwrights, and literary critics.
Café Procope was always THE center for politicians, strategic political conversations and movements. During the Revolution, the Phrygian cap, soon to be the symbol of Liberty, was first displayed at the Café Procope. The original Café Procope closed in 1872 and did not reopen as Le Procope until the 1920s, so the claim of being the oldest “continuos” is untrue.
In the 1920’s, Procope was acquired by a woman by the name of Baronne Thénard, who leased it to a Théo Bellefonds, under the condition that he preserved the café’s atmosphere. Bellefonds opened a private artist’s club and established a political and artistic journal entitled Le Procope, neither of which were very successful.
By 1988-89, Le Procope was re-born with a refurbished 18th-century style. Le Procope became the recipient of Pompeian red walls, crystal chandeliers, 18th-century oval portraits of famous people who had been patrons, and a tinkly piano. The waiters dress in quasi-revolutionary uniforms.
With all this said, Le Procope is a true favorite for both American and French tourists — those seeking a big bite of history.
12 Old French Restaurants Not To Miss
#5. Au Chien Qui Fume
opened: 1740
address: 33 Rue du Pont Neuf, 75001 Paris, France
website: https://www.auchienquifume.com
TIPS: go for the seafood platters, crustaceans; anything from the sea. Good value lunch prices.
The chic, fun brasserie “The Smoking Dog” has plenty of old world charm and décor which is a smattering of kitschy dog statues all over the place. This restaurant was once the hangout for the market men who worked at Les Halles, the wholesale market that once stood just in front.
Today, it’s an unassuming place that many seek out to experience the Paris of yesteryear. Meanwhile, there is no lack of familiar French dishes and piles of crustaceans. The prix fixe is also a good deal for this part of town.
In 1740, beside the market town know as the «Halles au Roy», a small inn opened. The local tradesmen whose favorite haunt it was, still talked about a certain Molière, born a century earlier in the nearby rue de la Tonnellerie.
Almost one hundred years on, Haussmann decided to develop the area and the old inn disappeared. But a few years later, it reappared opposite the building designed by Baltard, the revolutionnary.
In 1920, a new owner arrived with his dogs: a cigar-smoking poodle and a pipe-smoking terrier, whom he showed off to his customers. Hence the name Au Chien Qui Fume.
Brokers and porters from Les Halles, bon viveurs and gourmets from all over the area flocked to the restaurant. Today, Les Halles is gone. It has been replaced by the Forum des Halles and the Centre Beaubourg.
Luckily, Au Chien Qui Fume remains – and still has its bar counter decorated with smoking dogs.
In convivial surroundings, a delectable pile of fresh crustacean and shellfish await you!
#6. Le Grand Véfour
opened: 1784
address: 17 Rue de Beaujolais, 75001 Paris, France
website: http://www.grand-vefour.com/en/
TIPS: If you can afford dinner, then splurge. But for a better value, go for 4-course prix fixe lunch menu for a very special day. Michelin Two Stars.
Le Grand Véfour celebrates early nineteenth-century neoclassical décor — large mirrors in gilded frames and painted supraportes. Classic history-infused French gastronomy in a sublime setting. Visited by anyone who was (or still is) anyone in Paris (think Victor Hugo and Simone de Beauvoir). This trendy café became the city’s first glitzy restaurant around 1820.
Despite a brief lack of luster between 1905 to roughly 1945, when the restaurant fell into a ‘dive bar’ status. Subsequently, Le Grand Véfour went on to earn three Michelin stars in 1953. Though it lost one in 2008, who cares! Today, the food is outrageously priced, but a perfect Michelin experience.
Le Grand Véfour, was the first grand restaurant in Paris, France, was opened in the arcades of the Palais-Royal . As perviously mentioned, it opned in 1784 by Antoine Aubertot, as the Café de Chartres, and was purchased in 1820 by Jean Véfour. Jean Véfour was able to retire within three years, selling the restaurant to Jean Boissier (a noted French restuaranteur).
In 1983, the restaurant was destroyed in a bomb attack. It was then bought by Jean Taittinger (also a noted French restuaranteur). Taittinger restored and reopened this extraordinary dining establishment in 1984.
For additional history on Le Grand Véfour, click HERE.
#7 L’escargot Montorgueil
opened: 1832
address: 38 Rue Montorgueil, 75001 Paris, France
website: http://escargotmontorgueil.com
TIPS: for Burgundy region lovers; garlic and escargot; and the ‘snack menu’ makes this an affordable slice of history.
It’s all about the cuisine de Burgundy region at this 19th-century eatery. As a result, snails, butter and garlic galore. Yes, please!
It’s basically a given that you’ll order escargot while sitting inside a dining room trimmed with dark wood and a burgundy-red décor. The restaurant, like many on this list, is a historical monument. The prices reflect a dining experience in a sumptuous second empire establishment.
A big welcoming snail, hanging in all its golden-brass glory above the door, doesn’t let you forget that you’re presently in Paris, France.
Fortunately, an affordable snack menu features various salads, egg dishes, and soups that are more reasonably priced. The interior had a makeover in spring 2014 so the interior décor feels refreshed though they maintained the restaurant’s old-world feel. The enclosed terrace dining in the colder months offers a welcoming view onto the pedestrian street for people watching.
12 Old French Restaurants Not To Miss
#8. Au Rocher de Cancale
opened: 1846
address: 78 Rue Montorgueil, 75002 Paris, France
website: http://www.aurocherdecancale.fr
TIPS: salads and Brittany oysters, oysters, oysters
Au Rocher de Cancale is still selling oysters just as they were back in 1846. Oysters were originally an amuse-bouche or hors d’oeuvre and were typically not on menus. The decor has most likely changed a bit, but the originality and energy remains.
A former literary and artistic haunt, If you are into people-watching Au rocher de Canale doesn’t disappoint along Rue Montorgueil. This 19th-century timber-lined restaurant (first opened in 1804 at No 59) is the last remaining legacy of the old oyster market. You can feast on oysters and seafood from Cancale (in Brittany) as well as other plats du jour.
#9. Bouillon Chartier
opened: 1896
address: 7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 75009 Paris, France
TIPS: open 365 days out of the year; yummy inexpensive food and wine; a great value for a lot of history.
Simply put, Bouillon Chartier is just plain, unabashed, century-old fun.
The bill (l’addition) is written directly on the disposable paper tablecloth at the end of the meal. HA! Regulars used to leave their own napkins in the drawers to the right of the entrance. Today, tourists (and a few indiscriminate locals) know Chartier for its French food and wine at rock-bottom prices.
Honestly, people don’t line up for the food. It’s really just a fun French experience, with brusque waiters writing your order on the paper tablecloth. Meanwhile, telling you what to order and hustling around the beautiful dining room with its wood paneling and globe lighting.
Bouillon Chartier (9th), or simply Chartier, is a “bouillon” restaurant in Paris founded in 1896, and classified as a monument historique since 1989.
The restaurant was created in 1896 by two brothers, Frédéric and Camille Chartier, in a former train station concourse. The long Belle Époque dining room has a high ceiling supported by large columns which allows for a mezzanine where service is also provided.
It opened with the name “Le Bouillon” (literally meaning broth, or stock). The restaurant has had only four owners since opening.
12 Old French Restaurants Not To Miss
#10. Auberge Provençale da Bouttau
opened: 1860
address: 10 Rue Saint-Antoine, 06400 Cannes, France
website: : http://www.dabouttau.com
TIPS: worth a train trip to Cannes, incredible charming, classic dishes such as traditional bouillabaisse, duck magret and crepes Suzette flambés.
The oldest restaurant in Cannes, founded by Alexander Bouttau in 1860 and on the road that climbs up to Le Suquet. White table cloths, classic dishes, strong service and intimate. Of course, many treasures from the Mediterranean Sea. Between courses, you can peruse a treasure of photos of a long list of celebrities and politicians who have dined here.
#11. Le Train Bleu
opened: 1901
address: Place Louis-Armand, 75012 Paris, France
website: https://www.le-train-bleu.com/fr/
TIPS: must have foie gras, beef tartare, roasted lamb, rum baba, petit pot de crème au chocolat. Worth saving for this culinary experience.
Iconic and unmissable sums up this jaw-dropping architecture and decor. This truly stunning establishment is your dress-up and splurge. When you think of train travel, good food rarely comes to mind. On the other hand, at the Gare de Lyon train station, this giant jewel box might change your mind.
Le Train Bleu was designated a Monument Historique in 1972 and the dining room entirely was renovated in 2014. It is the youngest on this list, but an experience of a lifetime. It’s no wonder Coco Chanel, Brigitte Bardot and long list of celebrities and politicians have been regulars.
The restaurant was originally created for the Exposition Universelle (1900). Each ornate dining room is themed to represent cities and regions of France and are decorated with 41 paintings by some of the most popular artists of that time.
Initially called ‘Buffet de la Gare de Lyon’, it was renamed ‘Le Train Bleu’ in 1963, after the famous train of the same name. Be a star in your own movie on this extraordinary set.
12. Le Grand Colbert
building: 1637
space built: 1828
opened: 1900
address: 2 Rue Vivienne, 75002 Paris, France
website: https://legrandcolbert.fr/index.php/en/
TIPS: GO for sure. Romantic and unpretentious; yet gorgeous. THE BEST chicken you will ever eat in your life.
In short, my favorite “special” restaurant in Paris for food. Quiet elegance, unpretentious, intimate, classic French beauty and decor. Above all, go for the food and price point.
My brother and I broke all American holiday rules and were there on Thanksgiving Day. Seems like, we ordered everything, including the Roast Truffle Chicken for two. I was shocked at the bill (comparatively). For the overall ambience, food, service and history, I thought Le Grand Colbert was an excellent value.
After Le Grand Colbert, my brother and I finished our evening off with a night cap at the Paris Ritz. As a result, our daily budget might have gotten slightly bruised. Overall, I don’t regret any of it. We sort of had the bar to ourselves along with a robust paino player and a couple of Arab Sheiks.
At the end of the day, I remember the experience…the feeling of that incredible evening. My baby brother — Paris — incredible food — a gorgeous setting — and memorable conversation. Forever in my heart.
Priceless!
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